Cyclamen - home care in detail for beginner florists
The butterfly flower is considered one of the most beautiful indoor plants for a reason. For the original inflorescences, the so-called cyclamen, home care for which has its own nuances. And this is due not only to the requirements of an amazing culture to the conditions of detention. Although, in order to see a gorgeous bloom, it is important for cyclamen to maintain a comfortable temperature and the necessary lighting.
At the same time, the structural features of this amazing flower play an important role. At the end of the growing season, he needs a pronounced rest period. Only in this case the cyclamen will be healthy, strong, and will be able to lay flower buds for the next year. What is so special about this plant, and what kind of care should you surround it with?
Read also about types and varieties of cyclamen.
Characteristics
The cyclamen root system is a large tuber that looks like a flattened brown ball. In it, the flower makes reserves of moisture, without which it is impossible to survive, especially in the wild. The diameter of the tuber is on average about 5 cm, but there are real giants. Their simply huge tubers reach 15 cm in diameter.
Numerous thin auxiliary roots grow from the lower part of the tuber. And in the upper part there are growth points. Of these, at the beginning of the growing season, leaves appear on long petioles. They have a very nice heart-shaped shape with a scalloped edge. The main color is green, but the entire surface of the leaf plates is painted with silvery strokes.
The juicy tubers of wild cyclamen are a favorite delicacy of wild boars. This is probably why the plant is known in its homeland as "pork bread" or dryak.
With the arrival of autumn, thin peduncles begin to rise in turn over the lush deciduous rosette. They gracefully bend under the weight of large flowers. Their elongated wavy petals are bent in the opposite direction, resembling the wings of a butterfly. Each lives for almost 2 weeks, and only one bush can release up to a hundred buds. The natural color of cyclamen is pink-lilac. But breeders have bred many varieties with a wider range of colors.
After the end of flowering, the aerial part of the bush dies off, and the cyclamen goes into hibernation. Only after resting, he will be able to bloom again next season.
Cyclamen (Cuklamen) is an ephemeroid - a plant that blooms in the cold season. This feature is also preserved in indoor specimens.
Cyclamen - home care and the intricacies of room maintenance
Europeans, whose cyclamen grow literally under their feet, do not really bother with flowers. They often discard the tuber as soon as it fades and the leaves dry out. However, our growers are more attentive to green favorites, especially such unusual ones.And proper care can extend the life of the tuber up to 10 years or more.
It all starts with creating the microclimate necessary for a butterfly flower. In nature, it lives in cool, light and humid places with fresh air. Therefore, in the house you need to try to provide the plant with similar conditions. Moreover, not forgetting about the most important thing - a properly organized period of rest. Indeed, it is at this time that the tuber is preparing for the next flowering.
So, the basic requirements of cyclamen:
- coolness, especially during the active growing season;
- good, but diffused lighting;
- high air humidity.
Temperature regime depending on the growing season
Considering when cyclamen blooms, the temperature in the room should correspond to a specific period of its development. The plant can also rest and form flower buds in the warmth. But the active growth of new leaves and the flowering itself is possible only when the temperature drops. Of course, there should be a measure in everything, because both heat and cold are contraindicated in a flower. In the first case, the cyclamen will simply refuse to bloom and go into hibernation. And at low temperatures combined with high humidity there is a risk of tuber rot.
Cyclamens growing in natural conditions begin to bloom in autumn, which is rich in precipitation. Therefore, at home, they also prefer coolness and high humidity.
The following temperature regime is considered optimal:
- in autumn and winter, when the bush grows and blooms, the temperature should not exceed 15 ° C;
- from spring to the end of summer, the cyclamen rests at a comfortable 25 ° С.
The temperature in the room where the flower stands must not be allowed to drop to 10 ° C and below. These are too extreme conditions for a juicy tuber, which it may not survive.
Duration and saturation of daylight hours
When choosing a place for a cyclamen, you should take into account its lighting requirements. Like all flowering crops, the grubby loves the sun and needs it. At the same time, direct rays leave ugly burns on delicate leaves. Therefore, the light should be diffused, and illuminate the bush for a long time - at least 14 hours.
The plant also feels good in partial shade, but without fanaticism. The cyclamen forgotten in the far corner of the room will begin to stretch its petioles, and the rosette will fall apart. The marble pattern on the leaves will gradually disappear, and the flowers will become smaller.
In winter, which is the active growing season, cyclamens may need additional lighting. For this, you can use LED or fluorescent lamps, as well as phytolamps.
Based on this, it is not difficult to answer where it is better to put a pot with an indoor flower. Neither south nor north windows are suitable for him. At first, the plant will be too light, except to provide shading. And on the second, the cyclamen simply does not have enough light to develop and bloom normally. The best option is eastern or western windowsills, where the sun does not shine all day.
Cyklamen does not tolerate drafts and travel. For him, you need to immediately find a permanent place, at least for the period of growth and flowering. You can have a rest for the summer and in the garden, digging in a bush in a cozy and wind-protected place.
Air humidity requirements
Most of the problems with cyclamen are that it is difficult for him to provide the necessary humidity in the apartment. Especially during the heating season, during which it blooms. Radiators and batteries dry the air very much. This negatively affects the appearance and “well-being” of the flower. Even 50% moisture is not enough for him, because in the natural environment the plant is accustomed to higher rates.
Before the flower stalks with buds appear, the bush must be frequently sprayed. As soon as the first flowers bloom, special devices (a humidifier) will help maintain high humidity. Alternatively, you can put the pot on a pallet with wet pebbles.
What to do with cyclamen after purchase
So, as soon as a mysterious butterfly flower appeared in the house, he needs to be given time to adapt. In flower shops, conditions are completely different. It is always light and humid there, in addition, all specimens grow in a transport substrate. The first 2 weeks, the plant will get used to, adapt to a new place of residence. Then it should be transplanted into nutrient soil.
The tuber must be checked for the presence of diseases (rot).
To do this, it must be completely cleaned of the substrate and rinsed well. It is advisable to soak even perfectly healthy cyclamens for disinfection in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. And biostimulants will help to strengthen the immune system, for example, Epin.
The soil for cyclamens needs nutritious, but at the same time light so that water does not stagnate. If the soil is too dense, then it will dry out longer. In permanently moist soil, the tuber can rot. Ideal if you can purchase a special substrate for cyclamens for planting. You don't need to add anything to it, the maximum is to lay a drainage layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot.
You can make a loose fertile mixture yourself by mixing:
- 5 pieces of leafy land;
- 2 parts humus;
- 1 part of river sand and peat chips.
It is also a good idea to add some wood ash to your home substrate. It will prevent alkalization of the soil, which is very harmful for cyclamen.
Also, such a soil mixture is subject to mandatory sterilization. This can be done by calcining the soil in the oven, exposing it to frost, spilling with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate.
Cyclamen, home care - detailed recommendations
Having created the necessary microclimate for an elegant bush, all that remains is to maintain it. Nothing super complicated from the grower is required. The main thing is to take into account the preferences of the flower and reckon with what is not inherent and harmful for it.
In general, caring for Cuklamenom consists of standard activities:
- watering;
- fertilizer;
- transfer.
At home, you can most often find hybrid varieties of cyclamens. They are distinguished by longer and more colorful flowering.
Although the "wild" cyclamen, for example, Persian, can also live in pots on the windowsill. The latter rests for almost 8 months, but in the remaining time pleases with a beautiful dark green leafy rosette with a silver pattern. In the color of the inflorescences of the Persian duck, characteristic red-pink colors prevail.
Watering frequency
Cyclamen loves moisture, but its excess for the tuber is fraught with decay. Therefore, it is necessary to water the plant not too abundantly and not often. It is enough to moisten the soil once every 4 days, but considering how dry it is. If the substrate is still wet, it is best to wait a couple of days. Soil that does not have time to dry out is ideal conditions for the development of putrefactive diseases. But it is also impossible to allow it to dry out, otherwise the bush will begin to shed leaves and flowers.
Spraying the bush will help to increase and maintain the humidity at the proper level. However, during the flowering period, it should be abandoned using other methods (humidifier, pallet). Drops of water falling on the buds will leave ugly dark spots on them.
For irrigation, you should use settled water, if possible, rainwater. Its temperature must be at least 18 ° C. You can add a little citric acid to the water - the cyclamen will love it.
There are two ways to water an indoor flower:
- directly into the pot, but directing a stream of water from a watering can along its edges;
- into the pallet.
Half an hour after watering, excess water that is glass or remains in the pan must be drained.
How and how to fertilize cyclamen
Abundant and prolonged flowering takes a lot of energy from the plant. Regular fertilization will help provide it with nutrients. The flower prefers minerals, but at the beginning of the growing season it will be delighted with organic matter.
Peduncles keep not only on the plant for a long time. They can be cut and placed in a vase, extending the admiring of the butterflies for another 3 weeks. Just do not forget to change the water, and pre-cut the base of the peduncles along.
What drugs to use for feeding cyclamen and how to make them are clearly shown in the table:
| Drug name | When to use | How often | Solution concentration |
| Master (for flowering plants) | during the growing season | 3 times a month with a break of 10 days | 5 g for 2 l of water |
| Bona Forte (liquid form) | autumn winter | September-October - once every 7 days, from November to February - once a month | for irrigation: 10 ml for 1.5 liters of water, for spraying - 5 ml for the same amount of liquid
|
| Fertika Lux | constantly, except for the rest period | at each watering, and at the end of flowering - once every 2 weeks | 20 g per 10 l of water |
| Floretta | at the beginning of growth and during flowering | every 3 months | 1 stick per pot up to 12 cm in diameter |
| Calcium nitrate | after the end of the dormant period, when the tuber begins to grow leaves | every 10 days | 1.3 g per liter of water |
In addition to mineral complexes, cyclamen can be fed with solutions of wood ash, eggshells, yeast.
Features of transplanting cyclamens
Cyclamen does not grow very quickly, moreover, it annually drops the aboveground part, leaving for rest. It is enough to transplant it every 2 years, and the best time for the procedure is August or September. The plant is just starting to wake up, but has not yet managed to grow a young outlet, which is easy to damage.
Even if the cyclamen has a large tuber, it does not need a deep pot. The peculiarity of the culture lies in the fact that it blooms only in cramped dishes. Too spacious flowerpots "distract" attention and the bush will use all its strength to fill them with thin roots. As a result, flowering may not occur at all. In addition, the soil in such pots lies in a thicker layer, which means it will dry out longer. Roots and tuber can simply rot. The best option is shallow bowls, always with drainage holes in the bottom. Their size (in the sense of a pot) depends on the size of a particular bush, or rather, a tuber. You should focus on the distance from it to the walls of the dishes. It should be about 3 cm.
When transplanting an overgrown cyclamen, a new flowerpot should be 2 cm larger in diameter. At the same time, young tubers up to 2 years old must be buried almost completely, leaving only the top above the ground. Adult cyclamens are planted, deepening the tuber by 2/3 of the height. Many gardeners are interested in how to care for a transplanted cyclamen. It is better not to disturb such plants at first. They are not watered for 10 days, especially protecting them from the sun and its direct rays.
With any transplant, it is better to completely change the soil, and not to overload the plant. This will allow you to have a good look at the tuber, find out if it is healthy, and take action in time.
Cyclamen care after flowering
Cyclamen gradually completes its flowering. Home care during this period has its own characteristics. Do not wait for the bush to give up its last bud. As they fade, dried peduncles must be removed. The same is done with leaves that turned yellow ahead of time. It is better not to use scissors and a knife, but carefully and as low as possible to pinch off the petiole or peduncle. The wounds can be sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, if it is still far from retirement.
But with the arrival of summer, most cyclamens have a "vacation" and they are actively preparing for a vacation. After the end of flowering, it is necessary to reduce watering. The leaves of the bushes will begin to fade and when they completely lose their lush rosette, watering is no longer necessary. Now for the cyclamen, you need to prepare a place where the tuber can recover after flowering. A bright, cool room is also suitable for the plant to lay new flower buds.
Some growers cut the foliage as soon as the cyclamen has faded. But it is better if he sheds it himself - so the tuber can get more nutrients.
Resting plants should not be disturbed until autumn. It is enough just to visit them occasionally and control so that the soil does not dry out completely and the tubers do not die. Neither frequent watering nor feeding is needed during this period.
Possible difficulties in growing cyclamens
A completely healthy cyclamen is sick and disappears. Home care can have unexpected results. No matter how much one would like, no one is immune from troubles. Even with well-organized care, problems with cyclamens can arise. Sometimes the human factor plays a role. For example, the owners were away for a long time and were unable to water the bush in time. Or forgot to add the next batch of fertilizer. But in most cases, the reason for the loss of decorativeness is a violation of the conditions of detention.
To understand what is happening with a green pet, you should examine it and pay attention to the following signs:
- The leaves turn yellow, but the petioles are green. Reason: the flower is watered with too hard water.
- The leaves not only turn yellow, but also fall off. Reasons: too hot or too humid.
- Brown wet spots appeared on leaves, petioles and tubers. Reasons: excess moisture in the soil, too cold in the room. As a result, the development of root rot.
- Dark but dry spots on the leaves. Reason: sunburn.
- The bush faded quickly or there were few buds. Reasons: lack of nutrients, low humidity.
- Short peduncles that do not rise above the leaves, but hide under them. Reasons: lack of lighting, too cold and damp.
- Gray bloom on flowers and buds. Reasons: cold and high humidity.
Diseases and pests of cyclamen
It is very easy for moisture-loving plants to be harmed, especially by excessive care. Too frequent watering, high or low humidity in the room cause diseases. And weakened bushes are just a godsend for pests. Cyclamen is no exception, it has no immunity against fungi and insects and often suffers from them.
What cyclamen can hurt
Most often, the plant is affected by various putrefactive diseases and fungi, namely:
- Root rot. Despite the fact that the source of the disease is a rotting and decaying tuber, it is visible visually. At first, the leaves lose their turgor and sag. Then wet black spots appear on them. The soil in the pot begins to emit an unpleasant odor, and mold appears on top. What to do: the bush can be cured only at the initial stage. All affected parts are removed, transplanted into fresh soil, treated with Strobi fungicide.
- Gray rot. All parts of the plant are covered with a fluffy gray bloom and gradually die off. What to do: Treatment is similar for root rot.
- Anthracnose. Peduncles are deformed. Young leaves twist in a spiral, and their edges dry out. What to do: the bush is treated with a copper-containing preparation, removing the diseased parts. Glyocladin is added to the soil.
- Fusarium. The leaves turn yellow and wither, and brown dots are visible on the cut of the petioles. What to do: You can only save at the beginning. The socket is treated with Topsin-M, and the substrate is alternately treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and Fundazol.
What pests like cyclamen
Of the insects on flowering or foliage bushes, the most common are:
- cyclamen mite - small dots (bite marks) are visible on the leaves, and a cobweb under them;
- thrips - yellow spots on the back of the leaves, silvery strokes on top;
- scale - on the petioles and peduncles, tubercles, like growths, are visible.
If you find several pests, you can try folk remedies. This is spraying with soap, onion or garlic solution.
If the pests have already managed to multiply, it is more effective to use special preparations, insecticides or acaricides. These include Aktellik, Aktara, Fufanon, Agravertin.
Thus, growing and caring for cyclamens at home will not cause much trouble. The most important thing is to organize the conditions for plants to bloom. To do this, it is enough to provide high humidity, coolness, diffused lighting and moderate watering. And when the bushes have faded, give them a rest. And then every winter bright butterflies will flutter on your windows.